"I already wrote a review but after using it all year in battles I need to say some more things about it. This is literally the heaviest gun you can imagine. But it shoots like a laser beam. I have to carry extra ammo on me. One game I went through reloading the drum 4 times in battle. Also you’ll need to buy at least another battery because it won’t last 2 one hour games of not stop firing. The trigger handle is a bit wobbly. But over all don’t buy the he AGM version if this is one of your dream guns. I’m glad I bought this one. By far if your like me and this is your favorite WW2 gun it is 100% worth the money. I would recommend buying at authentic mg42 leather Carrying strap on the front.com they run about $100 but it’s worth it.
"I have the AGM and this G&G and the G&G blows the AGM out of the water! I modded an ACE Tech flame tracer to fit inside the booster cone so it seems even more realistic when firing
PROS:
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-Steel parts
-Realistic barrel change and charging handle action
-Easy access hop up and gearbox takedown
-Just looks awesome
CONS:
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-Charging handle does not lock all the way forward, the track that it rides on needs to be slightly cut more to ensure the charging handle lock is able to fully travel forward.
-Make sure the hop up chamber post #10 is locktighted because it tends to start spinning which can cause it to slam into the body when the hop up is released forward for removing the barrel and all that momentum is not going to be a good result if impact is made. Happened to me already and thankfully G&G sent me a replacement post and that was the only damage done.
-AOE needs to be corrected especially since this is a suppression type weapon. last thing you want is your piston going out early.
"I get that most people will buy the AGM instead of spending 3-4 times as much on this. However, I have owned both at the same time and quickly sold my AGM. Most online who own the AGM will say it is fine, but there are many ways to improve. The internals aren't good, the body has a lot of "metal" that doesn't often hold up well (which can often include loose charging handles, loose connections, easy-to-scratch surface, snapped parts, etc...), and the mag is okay at best. Of course, if you're careful with the gun and you spend some time and a little more money on upgrades, everything works out in the end. Yet another prime example of the ageless airsoft debate; "spend less and use the money to upgrade or spend more on the gun itself?"
With the G&G? It weighs an ungodly amount more due to the steel. The body feels sturdy enough to support the crumbling economy, the finish is gorgeous, the stock has no wobble, parts are tightly put together, and it even has a quick-change barrel. The gearbox is CnC, and while the internals aren't anything quite worth drooling over, they work well enough together that I have yet to swap anything out. The hopup chamber is nice, and while the bucking and nub are standard, quickly changing that out for a nicer ML hop or an R Hop patch helps excel at longer ranges, similar to what you'd be doing with the AGM anyway.
The gearbox also gives a nice rate of fire and can easily be removed when you want to open it up and/or swap springs.
I also believe the drum is better; the external quality is nicer and the feed tube/block is much more favorable. The reliability of continuously feeding BBs has excelled over my AGM and I have not needed to crack open the drum to repair anything, unlike my AGM.
The downsides? Obviously the cost. Additionally, while I understand the design choice, I am not a fan of the cylinder head and tappet plate. The cylinder head doesn't really bring about any concern of breaking but is very proprietary. The tappet plate? That is a part that can break but is difficult to source. My plan is to go directly to G&G, but that type of part should be listed on websites. This would be even more worrying if you do want to upgrade (say, to get an even higher ROF). IF you want to HPA it, you can buy a custom 3D printed gearbox shell or make your own as the offset, to my knowledge, isn't a default option for the P* F2 or Wolverine. It does allow you to use standard cylinder HPA engines and nozzle IF you want to go that route. Additionally, while not a downside for me since I have a wide variety of batteries, the gun has somewhat limited battery space, especially compared to the AGM. 1000-1200mah short stick LiPos fit just fine.
I have no regrets about mine and it is one of the few I plan to keep well past my airsoft game days, just as a nice prop. It brings me, and my friends/family, plenty of joy just seeing it, holding it, and playing with little features.
I have seen a few posts suggesting it's better to get a deactivated MG53 and convert that, but seeing as I live in the USA, I doubt I will ever be able to do that. If you are in the UK, that may be a viable option.
Pros:
Fantastic steel everywhere.
Good fitment everywhere.
Quick change barrel fun way to use the charging handle to pull the inner barrel back.
Great quality gearbox and hop.
Stock components give decent ROF and (so far) good reliability.
Neutral:
Somewhat limited battery space due to the sturdier design of the stock and placement of the gearbox.
Proprietary cylinder head.
Cons:
Cost.
Tappet plate is proprietary and isn't commonly sold on airsoft sites (at least any that take orders from/ship to USA).
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