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Matrix Wiring Switch Assembly w/ MOSFET for Ver.2 Airsoft AEG (M4 MP5 G3) - Rear

7 Customer Reviews

by Todd R. on 11/09/2014
"The value of these things is off the chart. A switch alone will run $10, and with this package you get a very nice MOSFET AND a brand new switch. All for a whoping $13 bucks. Look at the price of any other FET and it's double, triple or quadruple.. and they dont come with a brand new switch along with it. You can get MOSFETs outside Evike at places that like rhyme with "c-ray" for around $18-$25 bucks, but they are privately manufactured and they dont come with switches.

These Matrix MOSFETs come with the "low resistance" silver plated wiring that in theory sounds great, but in actuality have no noticeable affect on performance. Theyre really more of a pain in the @ss than anything because theyre so stiff and hard to work around through the gear box and onto the motor contacts in the pistol grip. As a matter of fact, what Ive done on two of these now is desolder the stiff wiring and rewire the thing with 16awg silicone wiring. The kind of wire that has the very soft pliable silicone insulation that comes stock in most AEGs. I rewire with 16awg silicone wire, 2.8mm spade terminals, deans connectors, 2mm, 3mm, 5mm and 13mm heat shrink (13mm for the MOSFET unit itself). I do it up right. make all the wires the perfect length for the particular gun its going in. Make sure theres enough length to access the fuse out through the end of the buffer tube on a crane stock or the full stock of an M16. Wish I could post pictures of my re-wired rigs with these Matrix FETs. I do a proffesional job on these things.

Now I want to address two suposed cons that two reviewers here mentioned. Ok, one guy says the spade terminals for the motor contacts broke when he bent them down (like you have to do to get them into the pistol grip). I guess that could happen if youre careless. Before I decided to rewire mine completely, I originally used the stiff wiring that came with the FET and had to bend the motor contacts down also because they do come straight (unbent) out of the package. I bent mine slowly and carefully and they did not break and worked fine. Another reviewer says that this MOSFET eliminated his semi-auto fire. Thats impossible. These things dont work like that. Trust me. What happened with that guy is that either the spring that connects his cut-off lever to his selector plate came off when he put his mechbox back into the lower receiver (which will of course make semi-auto not work), OR, sometimes when you put your mechbox back into the lower reciever and tap the take down pins back in it squeezes the mechbox against the lower reciever on the selector plate side, causing the selector plate to get pinned against the side of the lower receiver and get stuck and not operate properly.

Now on to the benefits of a MOSFET. How these things work is that they re-route the juice AROUND the switch directly to the motor itself. There are two 24 gauge signal wires that connect to the switch. The FET detects a closed or open switch through these two signal wires and when the switch gets closed the FET acts like a gate and closes off juice to the switch directing it straight to the motor. Pow. Full on power straight to the motor. MUCH improved trigger response and most importantly, no burnt up switch contacts from using kick @ss LiPO batteries. One reviewer said that the thin 24 gauge wires that connect to the switch itself got really hot. Haha! Can't happen. The 24 gauge wire is for signal only, the full power of the battery does not even pass through these wires.

Get this MOSFET/switch combo. Theres no downside. Only benefit. Especialy is youre using a LiPO battery. And if youre a mechbox geek and really into it like me, desolder those stiff wires and re-wire it with 16awg silicone wire and deans connectors. All materials available at that place that rhymes with "c-ray". Be carefull rewiring a battery over to a deans connector. Never let the positive and negative wires make contact. And don't cut both the wires off the tamiya connector at the same time shorting out the battery. It will kill your expensive LiPO battery. Cut one wire at a time and tape it off then cut the other wire. Keep the contacts taped off from each other when soldering also so that the soldering iron doesn't touch both sides together shorting the battery out.

PS: Make sure that the wires going through the bottom of the box over to the switch are laying as flat as possible or the pinion gear on your motor will get hooked on them. If that happens youre screwed. You will not be able to remove the motor from the mechbox and will have to rip the wires out to get your motor out. After you put your mechbox back together if you look perpendicular into the bottom hole of the mechbox where the pinion gear goes in, you should not be able to see the wires, or just barely be able to see the wires. Otherwise your pinon gear will get hooked on them.
by Min K. on 09/22/2014
"Great wire kit.
The MOSFET was in a good condition when I received it, and the wires are very sturdy.
My only complain is that the wires are pretty long. I had to trim down some wires in the pistol grip, but other than that, this item is definitely 5-star-worthy.
by Daniel R. on 09/22/2014
"good for price

high quality wire
everything else
by Min K. on 09/22/2014
"Great wire kit.
The MOSFET was in a good condition when I received it, and the wires are very sturdy.
My only complain is that the wires are pretty long. I had to trim down some wires in the pistol grip, but other than that, this item is definitely 5-star-worthy.
by Michael T. on 11/14/2013
"Installation into the gearbox was easy enough, that stuff is pretty much exactly like any other basic version 2 trigger switch. Some of the wiring is very thick and definitely has a bit of trouble fitting in the grooves the gearbox has for the wiring but with some finagling it does all fit.

The trigger contact is nice and long so it allows for a very light trigger squeeze to get a shot off. I was putting this in an Echo 1 version 2 gearbox and the trigger contact was is just under twice as long as the stock contact.

I have no idea how well this wiring works in practice. As you can see from the pictures, the leads that connect to the motor are straight. Once I closed the gear box and reassembled everything it was time to put the motor in. After putting the motor in the pistol grip of the mp5 I had to bend the contacts in to make the connection. The first had some trouble bending and felt very rigid, almost brittle. And of course, the second one outright broke off after barely bending it. So no go.

Certainly repairable, but what a pain in the booty. Definitely very hard for me to recommend this product if the leads are just going to break off.

mosfet (?)
long trigger contact

broke, so I don't even know how it works in a match.
by Jake N. on 06/17/2015
"Absolute garbage. I failed to look at the reviews and comments before buying this, only the price tag. I have spent hours trying dozens of possibilities to make this thing work correctly in my gearbox to no avail. As soon as the battery is plugged in, the motor fires in full auto and it's obviously due to a defect in the mosfet. don't waste your money, buy another brand.
by Reneboy A. on 05/07/2014
"I installed this into an A&K SR-25 to replace the original wiring with this low resistance wiring and to prevent arching from the 11.1v LiPo battery I like to use.

After installing this kit I no longer have the option of Semi-Auto fire. My DMR is now Safe, Full Auto, or Full Auto.

-Low Resistance wiring allow for crisp and quick motor response when the signal is sent to the mosfet.
-Eliminates the arching from the 11.1v LiPo battery.
-Easy installation if you know how to work on a Version 2 or 2.5 gearbox.

-Small wire gauge cause it to heat up when using a 11.1v LiPo battery in medium to heavy use.
-Wires are pre-heat shrinked so you may need to cut out the heat shrink to adjust the wire length to fit your setup.
-Eliminates Semi-Auto fire!