ID: 31234 (SAPI-Mx1)
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Evike.com Replica SAPI Dummy Armour Plate (Medium Size).
Full Size / 1:1 Scale Replica SAPI Dummy Armour Plate for CIRAS and other SAPI plate compatible vests.
Disclaimer: This is a plastic dummy plate and it is NOT bulletproof. This item DOES NOT provide ballistic protections. It is intended solely for costume, simulation and decorative purpose only.
Size: 9.5" x 12"
Manufacture: King Arms / Phantom
(Write a review)
"Finally got around to buying a pair of these for my PC, and so far loving them. They filled out my TAG Banshee Rifle PC very well, despite being plastic then have a decent weight and build to them. I am thinking about filling them in with either foam of sand for added weight and strength, this is just me though. If you're looking to just fill out your PC then they'll be just fine as they are.
"These plates are AWESOME! They fit nice and snug in my Mission Spec EOC. I highly recommend getting these.
"Great with an easy modification -
The plates are light and the plastic walls are very thin. The plates are toys, I was aware of this before I bought them. I purchased these to fill out my plate carrier and to keep it from sagging. I've spent more than enough time carrying real plates to know that I wound never consider them for airsoft. t's unreasonable and unnecessary.
One of the other reviewers stated that he filled his plates with Plaster of Paris. Personally, I wouldn't consider doing this due to the additional weight and fact that plaster cracks easily. To each his own, but I reenforced mine with light weight material, quickly and inexpensively. It cost less than $4 and 20 minutes of my time. Here's what I did and it worked quite well.
1. Buy a can of "GREAT STUFF" Insulating Foam. One can is enough for 2 plates and it can be found at any hardware store for under $4.00.
2. Drill holes in the top 3 edges of the plate, drill 3 holes on the bottom edge and 2 in the the back of the plate (be careful not to drill all the way through the front of the plate while drilling the back). Note: The holes need to be just slightly larger than the foam delivery tube.
3. Shake the can of GREAT STUFF for at least 30 seconds then stick the delivery tube into the holes on the top and bottom of the plate and fill the plate until the foam starts to ooze out of the holes on the back of the plate. If you're not sure the entire cavity is filled then keep squirting until the foam is flowing freely out of each hole.
4. The foam inside the plate is not exposed to air so take longer to cure than what's stated on in the instructions on the can. Allow the foam to cure for AT LEAST 24 HOURS and you're good to go. The plate is reenforced and he foam adds very little to the weight.
Tips - Wear gloves and make sure your work surface is well covered. The foam residue is next to impossible to get off of wood, marble or any other fine surface. Any attempts to wipe it up with a towel will only spread the mess. I'd suggest putting newspaper down on your garage floor and using it as your work surface.
DO NOT attempt to wipe the excess foam off of the plate before it cures! Instead, let the foam cure and then you can simply snap off any large pieces and any reaming residue will peel like the skin from a sunburn...with very little effort. GREAT STUFF does not adhere well to the outside plastic surface of the plate so there's virtually no mess left on the plate.
I'm not going to claim that this will make the plate indestructible, but it does add strength, it makes them more rigid and I can now apply pressure on the front and rear of the plate without the walls caving in.
I have a real carrier so I bought the large size plates. This process should work for the small plates as well.
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